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VOLUME 93 (2011) | ISSUE 4 | PAGE 213
Numerical study of Fermi-Pasta-Ulam recurrence for water waves over finite depth
Highly accurate direct numerical simulations have been performed for two-dimensional free-surface potential flows of an ideal incompressible fluid over a constant depth h, in the gravity field g. In each numerical experiment, at t=0 the free surface profile was in the form y=A_0\cos(2\pi
x/L), and the velocity field  v=0. The computations demonstrate the phenomenon of Fermi-Pasta-Ulam (FPU) recurrence takes place in such systems for moderate initial wave amplitudes A_0\lesssim 0.12 h and spatial periods at least L\lesssim 120 h. The time of recurrence T FPU is well fitted by the formula T_{\rm FPU}(g/h)^{1/2}\approx 0.16(L/h)^2(h/A_0)^{1/2}.